Millennials Rule Milan Fashion Week
MILAN (AP) — Designers resized Milan Fashion Week for menswear, condensing previews for next spring and summer into just over three days.
While New York and London’s commitment to menswear has waned, Milan remains true to the segment that fuels Italian exports. Of the $10 billion in menswear revenues last year, 64 percent were cashed in abroad — a higher percentage than womenswear at 61 percent of $14.5 billion.
Just the format is shifting. More designers are showing menswear alongside womenswear, with many like Gucci and Bottega Veneta waiting for the September round. And a number of fashion houses, including Missoni and Etro, have opted for presentations, while yet others are in a creative transition.
Highlights from the first day of menswear previews in Milan for next spring and summer on June 17:
Donatella Versace’s collection for next spring and summer is meant as a tribute to her late brother, Gianni Versace, who was the creative force behind the brand.
“It is not only me who wants to make an homage, it is also the Millennials, who ask for the iconic printed shirts,” Versace told the news agency ANSA.
Versace created looks for both men and women, including complementary pinstriped overcoats with Bermudas for him and tight-fitting pin-striped dresses with off-shoulder asymmetrical detailing for her. And she took the pinstripes from day to night, with sexy, sequined versions closing out the show.
Versace reached into the archives and retrieved the brand’s iconic Greek border, which trimmed men’s shirts, while a more ornate floral version finished dresses. They merged and popped into bold black and white optical illusion prints in a series of evening dress-up looks for both him and her.
ORANGE DESERT AT ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
Designer Alessandro Sartori’s debut collection for Ermenegildo Zegna Couture was presented against the orange of the Tangier desert he created inside Milan’s State University.
The collection mixed both romanticism and pragmatism. Safari jackets and anoraks had big utilitarian pockets, while retaining the brand’s careful lines, while oversized sweaters had a more relaxed feel.
Pinks, pastels and worn denim gave a nostalgic touch, along with boyish stripes. But there was also a tailored salmon colored suit worn with layers of V-neck sheers.
Highlights from menswear previews Sunday:.
Dean and Dan Caten, the Canadian twins behind the DSquared2 label, have made their mark on Milan — most recently with a neon maple leaf on the former distillery where they showed next year’s warm weather looks for men and women.
The designers put a jangle in the models’ walk with buckled leather straps in neat rows up the sleeves of sweaters, down the legs of trousers and leggings, and across boots.
Hawaiian floral prints were the accent of the season, with floral shirts paired busily with leopard leggings or worn over the trademark Canadian plaid. Painted florals accented leather pants and skirts, and appeared as panel overlays on denim jackets.
Highlights from Monday’s shows:
THE VERY BEARABLE LIGHTNESS OF FENDI
Silvia Venturini Fendi’s menswear collections was exquisitely light, summery in the best and most elegant sense of the word, best expressed in transparent nylon jackets that defined Fendi’s new executive work.
A sheer salmon-colored printed suit jacket allowed a glimpse of suspenders from the back, and yet was weighty enough to give gravitas to the brown striped trousers and complementary golden tie. The Fendi man is down to business, but it may be at poolside, or in a hotel lounge, professional and yet playful at the same time.
The silhouette of the looks had an easy Brat Pack feel, even if the story board backstage pictured Christian Bale in “American Psycho.”
And in that vein, ties are back, if loosely knotted, and also suspenders, but they are paired with nylon trousers or a matching sheer short, and sling-back loafers or slip-on pool shoes.
MADE IN ARMANI
Wind-swept and beach-ready describe Giorgio Armani’s looks for next season, even if most are meant for an urban setting.
The collection opened with a sweeping, double-breasted linen trench with a kaftan feel, setting a casual note. The materials — from crinkled linen to crumpled silk —- also contributed to the carefree mood.
Tapered pants closed with a buckle. A shiny silken suit had a relaxed shawl collar and open pockets.
For fun, there were silky combinations of aqua green and magenta top and bottom combinations, broken up by gray hoodies, and he played with proportions on youthful hybrid tops featuring knit fronts and shirt cloth backs. For serious business, Armani sent five classic suits with ties down the runway.